I’ve been riding bikes on Mount Desert Island for as long as I can remember. As a kid, my bike meant freedom — a way to get to Echo Lake with a towel and a snack stuffed in a basket and then get home with sand in my shoes and a grin on my face. As an adult, it’s still my favourite way to explore, but I’ve learned a few hard truths along the way.
The carriage roads are the heart of it all. John D. Rockefeller Jr. built this 45‑mile network between 1913 and 1940 specifically for pedestrians, horses and bikes. They’re wide (16 feet), well‑graded and free of cars, but you’re sharing them with walkers, riders and sometimes horse‑drawn carriages. The park asks everyone to keep right, alert others before passing and stick to a 20 mph speed limit. Class‑1 e‑bikes are welcome but anything with a throttle isn’t. For me, that means slowing down when my nine‑year‑old wobbles and remembering to call out when I overtake a group of kids covered in mud and smiles.
If you’re thinking of venturing beyond the familiar carriage loops, there are some unsung options. On the island’s west side, the Cape Road loop is a mix of dirt and broken pavement. It weaves through quiet woods and eventually pops out at the gentle granite shores of Seal Cove. A few picnic tables sit by the boat ramp at the Seal Cove picnic area — it’s a perfect place to unwrap a sandwich and watch working boats go about their day. I prefer to double back the way I came rather than braving Tremont Road; it’s busy in summer and the lack of shoulders makes me nervous. You can still encounter cars on the Cape Road, so stay alert, but it’s nothing like the main roads.
Another favourite is the Long Pond Fire Road. It’s a dirt service road within the park, so you’ll want to watch for the occasional vehicle, but it offers a gentle ride through mature forest. About halfway around the loop you pop out on the west side of Long Pond. I usually park my bike, kick off my shoes and wade in — the water is cold enough to take your breath away but warm compared with the ocean. You can continue the loop along Tremont Road (again, be cautious of cars) or take a small side quest up to Pretty Marsh picnic area for sunset. Bring a flashlight if there’s any chance you’ll be out after dark; the woods get dim quicker than you expect.
Everyone asks about riding the Park Loop Road. My honest answer? It’s beautiful but often miserable on a bike. It’s narrow, shoulderless and busy; the National Park Service advises cyclists to avoid it from 10 am to 4 pm during peak season. There are height restrictions at several bridges and it’s one‑way in parts. When we do ride it, we go very early in the morning or in the evening, take the spurs that connect back to the carriage roads and treat the pavement as a means to an end rather than a destination.
Practicalities matter. Sunscreen and bug spray are non‑negotiable — don’t forget that annoying strip of skin between your shorts and your shirt. I’ve learned that the hard way. Carry plenty of water and plan a treat stop: ice cream at the Quiet Side Café in Southwest Harbor or a popover at Jordan Pond House. And pack a headlamp. There’s a certain magic to pedalling home after sunset, fireflies winking in the trees and the distant hoot of an owl. Just make sure you can see the potholes.
If you’re biking with kids or folks who prefer shorter rides, remember that the island’s west half has just as much charm. The Long Pond Fire Road and Cape Road loops mean you don’t have to fight traffic to find peace. Bring along snacks (but don’t tell my kids, because somehow they always disappear) and enjoy the sweet exhaustion that comes from a day spent moving under your own power.